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I first began to suspect that what I considered to be delicious was strange — even off-putting — to most people when I interviewed a Manhattan chef who was cooking venison hearts in his restaurant.
On the countertop lay an enormous bin filled with the dark, glossy hearts, no bigger than our fists. The chef took a heart in his hand and, with a few smooth cuts of his knife, splayed it open, exposing ventricles and sinews that were no good to eat. With precision, not wasting any of the precious organ, he cut away all the tubes and tissues until there was only the dark red muscle left. He diced the heart into tiny pieces, mixed them with a vinaigrette of sorts, then offered me heart tartare on rounds of toast.
The heart was lean yet meaty-tasting. We stood there, eating venison heart and shooting the breeze. Somehow the interview got turned around and he started asking me all the questions. Where had I been born? China, I said. And was my mother a good cook? The best, I said. Then he asked me, what about all the offal you were made to eat as a kid? Weren’t you grossed out? Didn’t you just want a bowl of cereal, or a peanut butter and jelly sandwich?
I tried not to roll my eyes. How dense could this guy be? Just kidding, chef!
But really: was I grossed out by offal as a kid? That’s like asking someone who grew up on a farm if the smell of manure was too rank to tolerate. What seems gross to one person may be perfectly natural to someone who has grown up with it. (I have several friends who were raised on farms and swear by the intoxicating scent of hay, grass, and horse manure commingling in the air. )
So what is offal, exactly? Dictionaries define the word as the internal organs of an animal meant for human consumption. But I think that offal, more broadly understood, should also include all those bony cuts of the animal as well as those organs that are usually not seen at your typical meat counter: tongues, cheeks, necks, ears, snouts, trotters, tails, marrow bones and shins. That definition may not fly in the Oxford English Dictionary, but it’s a useful way of understanding just how narrow our consumption of meat has gotten these days.